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I really need some help. I’ve had my R tuned with REVO. It’s now their stage 2 package. It has a fault which has been throughly checked out and cannot be cured. Progressive parts in Manchester did all the work and they have been excellent. The car has been back twice and they can’t find out why it’s producing this fault. They even sent it to an electronics expert who went over all the work and still couldn’t find out why it was doing it. It’s not leaving any codes to track it down either.

Under hard acceleration the traction control light flickers on like the wheels are spinning. They aren’t, it’s had a new Haldex pump fitted and calibrated etc. After about 5 times of the light flicking on the dash a STARTER SYSTEM FAULTY WORKSHOP in amber with an amber warning ⚠️ comes up then goes off after a few seconds. They have had the car in twice for a full week and cannot find why it’s producing this fault. I’m desperate to get it sorted out as I love the car so much but it’s ruining my fun of owning it. It’s been returned to stock to see if it’s the software mapping issue, it still did it in stock mode. It’s had all wheel sensors calibrated etc but it still does it!!

Can anyone help me please!! The car will have to go if I can’t get it fixed as it’s driving me insane. It’s been told it has a new ABS system fitted to see if that was it, still does it. It’s been connected to Germany etc and had full diagnostics done, still does it. The report from this shows no mechanical faults and everything working correctly. 😭😭😡

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2 hours ago, Wardy said:

I really need some help. I’ve had my R tuned with REVO. It’s now their stage 2 package. It has a fault which has been throughly checked out and cannot be cured. Progressive parts in Manchester did all the work and they have been excellent. The car has been back twice and they can’t find out why it’s producing this fault. They even sent it to an electronics expert who went over all the work and still couldn’t find out why it was doing it. It’s not leaving any codes to track it down either.

Under hard acceleration the traction control light flickers on like the wheels are spinning. They aren’t, it’s had a new Haldex pump fitted and calibrated etc. After about 5 times of the light flicking on the dash a STARTER SYSTEM FAULTY WORKSHOP in amber with an amber warning ⚠️ comes up then goes off after a few seconds. They have had the car in twice for a full week and cannot find why it’s producing this fault. I’m desperate to get it sorted out as I love the car so much but it’s ruining my fun of owning it. It’s been returned to stock to see if it’s the software mapping issue, it still did it in stock mode. It’s had all wheel sensors calibrated etc but it still does it!!

Can anyone help me please!! The car will have to go if I can’t get it fixed as it’s driving me insane. It’s been told it has a new ABS system fitted to see if that was it, still does it. It’s been connected to Germany etc and had full diagnostics done, still does it. The report from this shows no mechanical faults and everything working correctly. 😭😭😡

 

Any chance the charging system is faulty and producing too high or too low a voltage at the battery?  Either can cause all sorts of weird problems.

 

It might be worth installing a totally different brand tune to eliminate REVO from being the cause of the faults.  I know they told you they "returned it to stock" but it's my understanding that in most cases it isn't actually your original tune, rather a generic "stock" tune that have on their database (I think this is easier for them rather than downloading and storing your original tune).  

 

Here is a report by someone else with the STARTER SYSTEM FAULTY WORKSHOP error msg, they had a faulty ignition switch:

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/starter-system-faulty.363830/

 

Other reports seemed to point towards sensors on the gear selector lever that tells the DSG which position the lever is currently in.

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2 hours ago, gregozedobe said:

 

Any chance the charging system is faulty and producing too high or too low a voltage at the battery?  Either can cause all sorts of weird problems.

 

It might be worth installing a totally different brand tune to eliminate REVO from being the cause of the faults.  I know they told you they "returned it to stock" but it's my understanding that in most cases it isn't actually your original tune, rather a generic "stock" tune that have on their database (I think this is easier for them rather than downloading and storing your original tune).  

 

Here is a report by someone else with the STARTER SYSTEM FAULTY WORKSHOP error msg, they had a faulty ignition switch:

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/starter-system-faulty.363830/

 

Other reports seemed to point towards sensors on the gear selector lever that tells the DSG which position the lever is currently in.

It’s a manual R so no dsg issues. It did it with a different brand tune too ( racingline)

the link doesn’t work for the ignition switch article 🤔

 

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9 hours ago, Wardy said:

It’s a manual R so no dsg issues. It did it with a different brand tune too ( racingline)

the link doesn’t work for the ignition switch article 🤔

 

Sorry about the link, it does work for me.  Maybe you have to be a member of the forum to see it ?  Here is the gist, anyway:

"So, I took it to a garage yesterday and he found the fault. It was a ignition switch that had faulted. Its cost me £70 for the switch and a bit more for labour to get it sorted and fixed. The mechanic had seen the problem before but only on older models of Golfs, not on a Mk7. But be aware it could be an issue to look out for guys."

 

OK, so no DSG lever position sensor issues to worry about.

 

If it behaved the same with a different tune then it isn't the REVO tune, so it has to be something in the car itself.

 

It would definitely be worth trying both traction control off (short press) and separately ESC off (long press) to see if that has any effect.  Traction control off allows the wheels to spin without intervention so usually not dangerous (unless you are going totally crazy).   

 

ESC off removes the intervention of car is sliding or yawing, so some caution is advised if you are pushing hard in a corner (but in a straight line nothing to fear).

 

Also worth putting a cheap volt meter in the power supply so you can check the battery voltage when the errors are happening.

 

Maybe a VCDS guru can suggest some logging that might give some clues about what is happening ?

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I’d take it to Awesome or VRS for data logging and consultation over the phone in the first instance.

Awesome have the APR scan tool which is far more sophisticated than VCDS and can read many more parameters.

It needs real-time data logging with this tool.

Failing that Id recommend MRC or Retro

Resus in Somerset.

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So I’m going to get it looked at by Retro Resus. See if they can shed some light on it. It’s so annoying and ruining my enjoyment of the car to be honest. 
Thanks for the help and advice people I will keep posting the results if any!!! 😡🙄😔

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I've got APR stage 2, high torque. I always have the traction fully off as I don't like any interference. If I forget to turn it off, I often get traction lights on in 1st and 2nd (but no other warning lights), and always in the wet. There isn't any wheel spin. It was fully checked over and no faults found. It was put down to the sheer amount of torque the tune generates at low revs and the limitations of the vw awd system with this much torque. The answer for me is not to forget to turn traction off - just a shame it can't be permanently coded off. 

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1 hour ago, Wardy said:

So I’m going to get it looked at by Retro Resus. See if they can shed some light on it. It’s so annoying and ruining my enjoyment of the car to be honest. 
Thanks for the help and advice people I will keep posting the results if any!!! 😡🙄😔

Excellent

Tom Walker will sort it. He pretty good if you look at their background in VAG Cup

PGTI MK5 Champ builds and he and Graham Scott previously built VW Cup winning cars in the late 80’s and 90’s 

( Paul Rose / Steve Block which my 16v was part based on).

Tom is a Ecotune and APR Agent so hopefully he will tie up with Tabby at Awesome for data logging your car. 
When are you booked in as I may pop down ?

Ian

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28 minutes ago, Tinker10 said:

I've got APR stage 2, high torque. I always have the traction fully off as I don't like any interference. If I forget to turn it off, I often get traction lights on in 1st and 2nd (but no other warning lights), and always in the wet. There isn't any wheel spin. It was fully checked over and no faults found. It was put down to the sheer amount of torque the tune generates at low revs and the limitations of the vw awd system with this much torque. The answer for me is not to forget to turn traction off - just a shame it can't be permanently coded off. 

At least you can “fully” disengage it unlike the old MK6R and S3 platform.

Good for track work but the sport setting in the wet is marvellous around Castle Combe in the wet where it gives limited slip

 

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7 minutes ago, Msportman said:

At least you can “fully” disengage it unlike the old MK6R and S3 platform.

Good for track work but the sport setting in the wet is marvellous around Castle Combe in the wet where it gives limited slip

 

I had a couple of Impreza STI's before the Golf - never had any problems with any of this traction business lol 

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On 29/08/2020 at 18:50, Msportman said:

Excellent

Tom Walker will sort it. He pretty good if you look at their background in VAG Cup

PGTI MK5 Champ builds and he and Graham Scott previously built VW Cup winning cars in the late 80’s and 90’s 

( Paul Rose / Steve Block which my 16v was part based on).

Tom is a Ecotune and APR Agent so hopefully he will tie up with Tabby at Awesome for data logging your car. 
When are you booked in as I may pop down ?

Ian

So at last my R is driving as it should. It’s been a pain in the bum and it’s been bloody expensive. Big shout out to Retro Resus for saving the day. Can’t recommend these guys enough. 
So it turned out to be the transfer box eventually!! I’ve had the Haldex pump replaced, it was still wrong. I’ve had the controller for it all replaced, still wasn’t working. Tom at Retro Resus said it was possibly the diff so that’s been replaced. It was still playing up and he said it could only be the transfer box and he was spot on. They had the R for a week, replaced transfer box and it is now sorted. It’s like driving a different car. With the stage 2 Revo tune it’s so good now. It’s cost me a lot but finally I can enjoy it properly. 🥳🤪👍

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14 minutes ago, Wardy said:

So at last my R is driving as it should. It’s been a pain in the bum and it’s been bloody expensive. Big shout out to Retro Resus for saving the day. Can’t recommend these guys enough. 
So it turned out to be the transfer box eventually!! I’ve had the Haldex pump replaced, it was still wrong. I’ve had the controller for it all replaced, still wasn’t working. Tom at Retro Resus said it was possibly the diff so that’s been replaced. It was still playing up and he said it could only be the transfer box and he was spot on. They had the R for a week, replaced transfer box and it is now sorted. It’s like driving a different car. With the stage 2 Revo tune it’s so good now. It’s cost me a lot but finally I can enjoy it properly. 🥳🤪👍

 

Wow. Glad you have finally got it sorted, but I dread to think how much all that work cost 😕

As it was basically a 'process of elimination', what happened to all those expensive components that actually didn't need replacing?

Also, was it concluded that there was a link between the transfer box fault and the Revo tune or was it put down to coincidence??

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4 minutes ago, PhilC22 said:

 

Wow. Glad you have finally got it sorted, but I dread to think how much all that work cost 😕

As it was basically a 'process of elimination', what happened to all those expensive components that actually didn't need replacing?

Also, was it concluded that there was a link between the transfer box fault and the Revo tune or was it put down to coincidence??

No link between the tune and the fault as it was put back to stock and it still did it. Well yes I’ve had bits changed that probably didn’t need to be but as the fault had been there for a while, it had caused the haldex to stop working and the controller to burn out so they were linked to the fault. Cost a bit 🙄🤣

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