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Aucky

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Everything posted by Aucky

  1. I believe its a reset which allows the 'self learning' program to take on new parameters again.
  2. Did you used to work at Shell Global? (Thornton research?)
  3. Have a go with LP on a more aggressive pad. I've done some great correction with only LP!
  4. If they're loaded onto a train, and if it gets sat at a station for a while they can get absolutely covered in iron contamination from the brakes of passing trains. I've heard of some cars literally having small pieces of slag on them!
  5. Does the R600 have an ITG filter? I've heard of those disintegrating before.
  6. Heartbreaking feeling when this happens
  7. Lol!! The VW promo vid was on a racetrack!
  8. Has anyone approached VW to see if they have any approved 5W40? I'd rather they didn't put more in under my service plan after I switch to Fuchs 5W40
  9. I painted mine silver straight away. I learned on the last one!
  10. So you can take your new set of botls to the dealer, they'll remove your old ones with the master and fit your new ones. That's how I read it!
  11. Have you driven them in winter yet? They're positively wooden in cold/damp conditions.
  12. Have you ever left it at airport parking etc?
  13. Imo the application method be it a pressure washer, domestic supply pressure, or a spray bottle isn't overly critical. I'd be happy with all of them. However, if you're suggesting that you wouldn't be using a pressure washer full stop if you do t have to, that's where the cleaning ability will drop off and risk of scratches will increase. Pre washes are very useful to soften dirt but it's almost all for nothing if you don't have a pressure washer to blast it off afterwards!
  14. After my recent detail I thought I'd better get a few quick pics tonight:
  15. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/jack-pad-adapter-kit/ecs10724kt/
  16. To quote a post in another forum, Citric acid helps precipitation of iron by ammonia by forming a complex with it. - Ammonia + Citric Acid + Thioglycolic Acid + Iron reacts to form ferric thioglycolate, which is red/purple in colour (Hence the 'bleeding' effect.). Thioglycolic acid helps to oxidize iron (II) to iron (III). - Accelerates oxidation process turning wustite (Mineral found in iron ore) into ferric oxide (rust) very quickly. This is a controlled corrosion process, or essentially, acid pickling. Ammonia to make solution alkaline - Adding an alkaline to the thioglycolic acid makes it very nearly pH-neutral in solution (In the bottle), until it contacts iron when an acidic reaction will start to take place, lowering the pH of the product in use. Therefore, if it stops turning purple on repeat applications, it's reasonable to assume that the iron particles have been removed.
  17. Thanks! It was just Autosol on a green 3M spot pad. I wasn't aiming for a shiny chrome finish but the ''satin'' finish looks pretty good!
  18. Obligatory beading shots I'm still waiting for some decent weather / light to get some proper 'after' shots. It's been so dreary this week! Unpictured: Calipers and arches dressed with DLUX ECS jack pads fitted
  19. 6 or 7 (I can't remember) layers in total Trim dressed in Dlux, seals dressed in SV Seal Feed Interior trim dressed with Werkstat Satin Rolled outside for inspection
  20. The Clean tips wiped down with IPA and coated with DLUX Glass polsihed with Gtechniq G4 and Clean with G6, then coated in Dlux (all windows) Gloss plastics on the front bumper were coated with DLUX, Glass coated with FlyBy Forte. This was my first time with Forte and I muched preferred the application to GTechniq G1. Time for CQUK. Applicator prepped Applied in sections and residue removed with the supplied suede towell and a second buf with a short pile MF. Left overnight to cure, now to be topped with Reload
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