Bingodalton

No need for fueling upgrade for mk8r stage 2 Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

Stock gap, dont think about it. I am running stock gap St1 and now St3. If regapping, use a tool. In contrary you can weaken electrode. Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

You need to do basic calibration of dcc while car is on the lift with shock fully unloaded. It is just quick reset of values in elongated position. I am not sure how it is called, I think in suspension in adaptation there is an option. Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

Any dragy times of the car? Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

It could be some crack in fueling neck, full charcoal canister, gases unable to escape,... maybe nothing major, but you should check where it comes from? Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

Have you tanked the fuel night before? Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

It has changed due to eco reasons. If you have g13 already in, you can top up with g13. Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

Just erase them and check after. I guess you did not do that after installing suspension back. Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

It is possible to set car in 2wd dyno mode. But, as this guy does not know that, I would stay away from him. Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

I had similar problem, I would suggest next thing to try. Bring car in state where it does not want to start via button. Then while idling activate start stop (i guess you dissable it when you get into the car). Car will shut down if it is warm enough and conditions are met. Deactivate start stop and see if it will run the engine without problem. Do this several times and report. Simply saying, check if start stop system is starting the car without problem, while you afe unable to do that manually. Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

No alert on vcds, no errors. Rough(er) idle, better say it sounded uneven and if I remember slight jerking while steady driving. Like slight pressing of throttle and releasimg, make you feel sick, like you are in the boat [emoji1787] Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

If I remember correctly, Ina is oem manufacturer. Do not bothet with cleaning. Replace it/them for 30/60 pounds while you already remove them. In vcds you should compare requsted/specified value and actual/measured one. If they are not alligned, they are faulty. Could haplen they are ok on idle, but not following requested while driving. You can see on my picture one is clearly not alligned. Second one is after cleaning. Third one with new magnet. There is obvious difference. Sent from my SM-S931B using Tapatalk

Let me suggest something simple and I think it will be effective. You could do it yourself if you are ok with light repairs. Remove throttle body and clean it. It is 4 screws from underneath. It will be oily from above (manifold side) and it does not make precise airflow on idle. Just clean it with some fine brush and brake cleaner. Let us know the outcome. It is half an hour job if you get easily to screws, feel them with fingers first. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

Put the heater fan to max speed, max temp, for some time, 10 minutes. From day to day open expansion bottle to release air. Air is trapped. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

Usually buzzing is from fuel lines underneath right seat. From above in the floor. There are rubber inserts according to tpi for that purpose, at least in USA. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

I would say it equals 420-430hp with that 100-200 time. Mine goes from roll 9.5s with 424hp, but it is Skoda Superb, so at least 150kg more. In that setup hpfp could be limiting factor. I have fuel pressure drop on 98oct map, which brings it to 441hp. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

Yep, current revision is D. Item 26. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

I would suggest Intercooler first. PMax is more controllable on stock downpipe and you will be able to push 420-430hp. I think Ecotune does recommend this setup. With downpipe it is more tricky to contol boost and you can see 440-450hp but with possible fuel shortage in higher rpm. After that upgraded hpfp for safety and you will see stable 450-460hp. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

Are you sure you are safe to clear adaptation values. Vcds shows warning that it is not safe. As you might need to visit dealer after. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

One thing which should be cheap to do. Try to clean throttle body. You can remove it without removing intake manifold. This is by service procedure. Air duct shoukd be removed, hoses moved a little bit. Remove clamps and intake hose from charge pipe to thrittle body. 4 screws will be harder to find as they are not easily reachable. My service guy did everything in less than an hour, taking off, cleaning, placed on car. Clean it good as it can affect air intake. On my car it started to affect hot starting. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

Following similar problems these are not solutions. Magnets if not working (actual/specified) still does not produce hickups. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

I am thinking of just 2 other things. - Vacuum membrane on intake manifold, where secondary ir intake is attached. Tube from air filter housing. (saw on yt it made jerky car as it had vacuum leak). - Charcoal canister is maybe full, so evap system is not working good. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

You are comparing different class of car. More complex suspension. You can replace rear stabilazer. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

If number of missfires is 1, there is nothing to concern. Log data while driving for actual/specified adjustment and if curves are aligned (not always, but you will see), you do not have a problem. Intake magnet is the one closer to you watching the engine, exhaust is the one closer to cabin. Simple, where is intake and exhaust. Look at faulty and replaced intake magnet. Third image is both magnets, you see how alligned are values. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

Could be, but I would first exclude everything else. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk