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75Type2

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75Type2 last won the day on May 7 2018

75Type2 had the most liked content!

About 75Type2

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    Ought to work for R GmbH

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    South East of England
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    All things VW

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    Karl

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  1. As said above. Speak with the tuners and you’ll soon get an idea of who understands your requirements and how that can be achieved. VRS have given some very helpful and honest advice when I’ve used them. The APR software (and others) have the options of Low, Medium, High torque outputs which means your clutch doesn’t have to get hammered by a tune. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. If you are looking at tracking the car, then catch can / oil management system is a good starting point. I have had the Racingline catch can fitted for the last 2 years and I haven’t had any issues. Also when you empty the can and see the gunk it’s captured and prevented from entering the turbo and intercooler, it’s not a bad thing to have in place. Regarding the cooling. I’ve just had a iABED baffled sump pan fitted. It’s aluminium in construction and add’s an additional 0.3 litres of oil capacity. The baffles help retain the oil around the oil pick up when cornering hard. The other benefit is that it’s helped reduce the oil temperature, as I haven’t seen it above 101 degrees on a hard drive. Motorway driving at 80mph the oil temp sits around 95 degrees when the ambient temperature is around 21 degrees. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Just be weary when running the discs and pads in that the coating doesn’t build up on the rear pads, causing the pad and disc to bind. In other words don’t put the handbrake on for the first few stops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. He’ll be referring to the brake disc surface and not the hub. You cannot coat the brake disc surface to prevent corrosion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. May sound silly but are you sure the clunk you are experiencing and hearing is in actual fact the door auto lock function? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I can't remember to be honest, but I don't think I did and I don't think it matters because you are resetting the position of the motor anyway. The basic instructions are listed on the App.
  7. Yes I’ve done this. OBD will wind the motors all the way back (10 credits) When finishing, apply the brakes via the brake pedal a few times to push the pads into place and then reset the parking brake motors with OBD again (another 10 credits). If you don’t seat the pads by using the brake pedal you’ll end up with EPB fault (speaking from experience). It’s a very simple procedure really. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Using a glass sealant on the pano glass does help prevent debris and alike sticking to the glass. I've never had any dust or debris fall into the car from the sunroof, then again, I tend to have it on tilt a lot of the time. I use the Aerospace 303 to clean the wind deflector after a quick blast using an air from in to out and hoovering any remaining debris. I will give the sunroof a going over once summer reappears i.e. lube and krytox.
  9. 100% agree. Stage 1 tune and R600. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. That's a bit of a journey you've been on Batch. Enjoyed reading your thread though. 👍
  11. It will be the GPF muting the DSG farts. That’s why post WLTP cars don’t have resonator boxes. The farts are caused by the ECU retarding the timing to prevent the engine from over revving for that split second when there is no load on the engine with the DSG changing between clutches. By retarding the timing and not just dropping the rpm, it keeps the turbo spinning, which means instantaneous power when the timing reverts to its advanced timing setting and the next gear is engaged. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Yes please. [emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Bosch 096 AGM S5 A08 Is a very reputable battery with a decent warranty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Hi Stef, Is it worth checking the various fuel pressures using the live data / gauges on OBDELEVEN and see if there’s any correlation between the rough idle and the fuel system? Could be a faulty or failing fuel pressure switch? It may also be worth monitoring misfire as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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