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  1. VW Part Number G-001-780-M3 When people bring their cars to the dealership with misfire issues the first thing the do is say your probably used bad gas and have you put this in your tank with new tank of different gas. Since you have multi-port ignition it can be effective but here in the US with direct injection it is sort of pointless. With new plugs and coil packs, however, it probably won’t do much good either. In your case, I would say go ahead and get the OBD Eleven. It has a ton of useful features in addition to helping you identify your misfire issue.
  2. I still can’t emphasize enough the cheaper and easier initial steps of: 1) Scan for logged errors 2) Add VW Fuel Additive 3) Change Sparkplugs If you are handy and can change the plugs yourself you are looking at less than 50 pounds to try this first. You don’t mention if you have an OBD Eleven and I highly recommend it (Pro). I had misfires and the CEL finally came one (but my OBD Eleven logged it beforehand) and after changing my plugs I was getting only 1 misfire per 1,000 revolutions which is negligible. Here is a video on how to read misfires (and there are a plethora out there in how to change the sparkplugs):
  3. BCS Powervalve is the best at eliminating drone. It has a helmholtz resonator:
  4. You really need to show them the service schedule from the manual and insist they change the oil. If they are difficult, call VW corporate.
  5. Correct. Some service items are time based only such as flushing the brake fluid, but the majority of items are time OR mileage based WHICHEVER COMES FIRST, especially oil changes.
  6. Assuming you are in Europe/UK, you have dual port injection so carbon buildup should be modest. Try the VW fuel additive first and check your mpg on the next fill up afterwards. If that doesn’t help you could consider replacing your spark plugs. You can also scan your car for faults. Some faults won’t throw a CEL but may point to something that could reduce your mileage.
  7. Bent one of my 19” Pretoria’s at the hub and subsequently sold the set and switched to Neuspeeds. The Pretorias are God awful expensive.
  8. Always handy to have a bottle of this around as well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sonax-03401000-Rubber-Protectant-GummiPfleger/dp/B01GS3EIIC
  9. Carbon builds up in the intake valves. An independent can clean them (they either use a chemical process or walnut blasting) but your miles are really too low to make that the culprit. Hopefully your mate’s code reader will offer you some clues. Good Luck!
  10. How many total miles? Could be carbon buildup. Also, invest in an OBD Eleven and scan your car for codes. It still logs faults even if your car doesn’t throw a CEL.
  11. If it makes you feel better, clutches are “wear and tear” and usually not covered by your warranty (definitely not past 20,000)
  12. If you don’t have an OBD Eleven (Pro), start by buying that and disable the Soundaktor. It pumps fake engine noise in the cabin by resonating against the windshield and may be the cause of the high pitched noise. The OBD Eleven is one of the best purchases ever for our cars so even if doesn’t solve your issue, it has a ton of other features. Another possibility is do you have anything plugged into the auxiliary port? If so, a ground loop isolator can help tremendously.
  13. Wouldn’t know. Live on the other side of the pond. [emoji16] Many on here switch to 18” wheels. I bent one Pretoria at the hub and due the high replacement cost, sold them and bought a set of Neuspeed RSe10’s. First car I ever bent a wheel. [emoji35]
  14. Just an FYI, the 19” Pretoria’s are a bit on the fragile side if you live in an area with poor roads.
  15. For regular service I would leave it on and set it to stock mode. For warranty service involving engine or transmission issues, I would spend the few minutes that it takes to remove it and avoid any possible hassle.
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