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About Andygo

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    Ph.D. in R-ology

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  1. Cheers Mike. By the way, looking at your username, is, er, it, really green? If so have you seen a Dr about it?
  2. Not being a costco member, how do you know when the deals are on. Can't wait to offload the nasty (albeit 6mm tread) on my Cayman for some PS4's
  3. In the case of Michelins, to be fair, they do last longer, but yes, penny pincing and how many people notice anyway. Nobody is NOT going to buy them 'cos they are 1mm down on tread. When they are new, the tread looks like its going to last forever anyway!
  4. They are damn cheap compared to a decent MTB tyre. Just paid £65 echa for a 27.5" x 2.5" tyre. There's bugger all rubber in one of those and as far as I know, wouldn't be much cop at 150MPH! And they have the audacity to rave about the tractioon with a mtb tyre. Haha, controlling about 1/10th of a bhp from my legs. Big deal!
  5. Had a Boxtser before the R, but much as I loved the R, I just hate 4 door cars which is all you can get with VW nowadays. Shame really, as a 3 door golf looks lovely. Bu weighing up for potential for big bills with the golf sneaking up to 35k miles (electronics, water pump) i thought I would swap whilst the p/x price was at a very attractive level. Once it nudged up to 40k plus, and with the 8 looming, I could have taken a big hit!
  6. I part exe'd for a 20,000 mile old Cayman S PDK. cost £4k to swap. Got £21,500 for the R. Paid £27,995 for it in August 2017. It was a pre reg with 20 miles on the clock. Not bad depreciation..
  7. The time has come when I no longer own a Golf R. It's been sold and I'm moving on to something a bit different. I'll miss the wealth of knowledge and help on the forum and the banter. It's been great. I have however a bundle of stuff for sale in the classifieds, most of it brand new, bought as spares for a recent track foray, but not used. It's nice having spare consumables in 'stock' rather than scratting round when you discover you need them urgently! Ciao for now everyone!
  8. I have just had a weird issue with my electrics as well. My 7.5r had a good run at the weekend (3.5 hrs round trip. Went 5 miles up the road and was waiting for my wife in a car park, listening to the radio with ignition on for a couple of mins when i saw a dash notification saying " Battery low, please turn off infotainment"/ Turned the infotainement off, tried to startt e engine, but battery appeared flat. tried a couple of times same result. Phoned Internatonal Rescue (my son and his jump start pack). Wife appeared a 5 mins later, tried the car, started perfectly. Drove home, started again just fine. Left it on the trickle charger & hoping it keeps starting. Annoying as the car is being part exed on Sat and I would prefer not tp put a battery on it! By the way, It's having its 2 month old Bilsteins B16 coilovers removed on Thursday. They will be coming up for sale, together with a brand new set of Ferodo DS2500 pads and brand new Pagid front discs if anyone is interested.
  9. Mine rattle a bit - I think it's beacause the little spring tension bits that are a pain to compress when first fitting the pads lose their spriginess when the pads get stinking hot. The metal backplates on my pads have come unstuck as well. It doesn't affect performance and I just turn the radio up if it becomes a niggle!
  10. There is also a spring attached to the clutch pedal that actually pulls the pedal down towards the floor. It’s to make the clutch pedal feel even lighter. Easy to pull off with a pair of pliers, you don’t need to remove any trim to gain access. Unfortunately, the only real fix is to fit an organic helix clutch (or a sintered version). Absolutely transformed the car for the better instead of the vague and wishy washy standard offering. There’s a reason a lot of R’s have clutches replaced- it’s because they are weak, especially as they are 4wd, so have bags of traction.
  11. I'm running Ferodo DS2500's. No particular dust issues except I have noticed that the pad residue on the wheels doesn't seem to contain the annoying iron particles that standard pads deposit onto the rims. As a result the wheels are easy to clean. They seem to stop ok from cold and obviously work well at speed. The brake pad sensor is easy to sort out. Cut the sensor wires out of your old pad and simply join the two wires together. I soldered mine and then taped them. 2 minute job. Then simply use that old plug to attach into the old female connector that it used to be connected to, attached to the strut.. You never need to do anything other than keep a watch out for pad wear using the MK 1 eyball interface. I definately wouldn't be buying pads on the fact they have an inbuilt wear sensor!
  12. They wil probably give you some bull about it taking weeks to settle down. I's put a bit mor coolant in and see what happens. If you pop your head under the bonnet (best done when car is stationary) can you smell coolant? Of so, it's prolly leaking.
  13. That wind back tool is designed for the rear brake pistons, which do need to be wound back in. The front pistons just ease back slowly as you are pushing hydraulic fluid 'upstream''. I just grab the brake caliper's rear face and gently, bit firmly pull it towards the outer side of the car. It will easily move a few mm. This allows you to get a screwdriver between the inner pad and the disc to lever the piston back a wee bit. Don't worry, you are swapping the disc anyway, and not a lot of effort is required tbh. Once two caliper fitting bolts (13mm and 17mm spanners) are removed the caliper can be lifted out of the way. I use a long cable tie or similar to suspend the caliper out of the way, usually tied up to the roadspring. You should be able to push the piston back by hand TBH. The two caliper carrier bolts will require a bit of force to undo, a breaker bar is best. Be careful with the small countersunk disc retaining torx bolt, they round off easily as they can corrode into place. I modded my rear disc backplates at the weekend (bending them to duct a better airlow to the inner disc face). I took the discs off to do the job, it took me an hour and 5 mins and that included getting out the tools, hydraulic jack etc. So it's not a big job at all and not as complex as instructions make it sound!
  14. Looks like he knows his way round, all credit to him!
  15. Unit 18 Automotive in MK. They fitted the Bilstein B16 kit and did a geo setup and asked me to come back in a week or so once everything had settled down to set it up properly. it just made the car better again. im super picky, but I can’t recommend them enough. The fact they are also rammed counts for a lot.
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