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Battery Replacement


Nugget
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Hey all, I'm looking at replacing the battery on my 7.5R soon. 

 

I was told by the dealership I needed to buy their battery and have it installed by them as it needs to be coded. Is this true? 

 

What would happen if I bought a good suitable battery and replaced it myself without coding it? 

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You don’t have to buy your new battery from a VW dealer and have them install it for you! 
 

It is best if a new battery is coded though. Your car’s battery management system (BMS) monitors the state of the battery and adjusts the charging rate as the battery ages. When you replace the battery, if you don’t code the new battery to the car, the rate of charge applied by the BMS will be at the level that was required by the old battery (i.e. higher than is needed by the new battery) which could shorten the life of the new battery.

 

Many other independent car battery retailers will also code the new battery to the car, or if you know someone with a suitable coding tool in your area, they should be able to do it for you. 

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A new replacement battery does need coding, more so if you are changing it from the original EFB to the newer AGM type battery.

 

My advice would be to buy an AGM, they seem to last longer than the EFB batteries and have more cranking power (handy on a cold winter morning). You can always ask on this forum if someone can assist with coding the battery for beer tokens (it would need a simple coding change for battery type and serial number IIRC). That would be cheaper than going to the Stealers and getting them to replace the battery and code it for you.

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32 minutes ago, Nugget said:

Thanks for the advice. I'm thinking I'll buy and install the battery and then take it to a small workshop to code it for me, would that work? 

You might also want to look at, consider buying an OBD11 Pro.   You can check car for faults and enable/adjust innumerable settings on your car to your personal preference. 

Including Battery Coding.

So if you were looking for an excuse to purchase…..👍

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5 hours ago, Damian Mac Donagh said:

Never coded a single battery for my R and been through loads of different types over the years so I wouldn’t personally worry about it, makes zero difference in reality.

 

Regards

 

Damian Mac Donagh

 

It takes like 10 seconds to do and is recommended to do in the manual, why wouldn't you code it?

 

The car literally charges it at different rates depending on age, so while its probably a small difference it is still a difference and the proper way to install it. 

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On 23/08/2022 at 07:59, R_wannabe_owner said:

You don’t have to buy your new battery from a VW dealer and have them install it for you! 
 

It is best if a new battery is coded though. Your car’s battery management system (BMS) monitors the state of the battery and adjusts the charging rate as the battery ages. When you replace the battery, if you don’t code the new battery to the car, the rate of charge applied by the BMS will be at the level that was required by the old battery (i.e. higher than is needed by the new battery) which could shorten the life of the new battery.

 

Many other independent car battery retailers will also code the new battery to the car, or if you know someone with a suitable coding tool in your area, they should be able to do it for you. 

 

R_wannabe explains well why it should be coded. If your gonna spend £150+ on a battery, why not get it coded and get the best out of it and minimise risking the lifespan of the new battery?

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i just changed my battery. Like for like. Not coded it. But i will ask when in next goes in for a service.

 

I was kinda under the impression that if you replaced like for like it didnt need coding, but by the sounds of it, to get maximum life, it should be done.

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Any evidence to demonstrate coding actually provides a benefit (it's just always you should do this, this topic has come up a few times over the years), will your battery last 6months longer by doing so, no.

 

Majority of people use R's as daily drivers so the battery is in constant use so in not coding what's the noticeable change in daily usage, it's never in a position where it's going to be in a position to tail off.

 

I asked my Tuner years ago about this as they always had the battery in and out, he just looked up and laughed. Says it all.

 

My scenario is I use the car once in a blue moon and if it's not been hooked up to a trickle charge it will be knackered due to additional features the car is equipped with so coding or not, I'll be getting a new battery which is why I've done so many and never done it once.

 

Wasn't using a trickle charge for years due to a bad experience on another car with one, so it was an occupational hazard as it was dead after 2-3days if not started and ran. 

 

When you read some of these posts as a newbie I think it unnecessarily spooks folk when the reality is if you want to code for peace of mind, go ahead, if you don't it won't change a single thing so you make your own choices.

 

Regards

 

Damian Mac Donagh

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For anyone still after some good information on battery options / coding, have a look here:

 

How to retrofit a bigger capacity battery

 

Some info on the correct coding option also in there (IIRC, the coding for AGM on the first few pages was corrected in the later pages).

 

Whilst the business of coding may seem unnecessary to some and a must for others, I can't help but query why VAG group went to such lengths with multiple options available when it came to something as simple as the battery, they added the options to code different types of batteries / change serial numbers. I'm not sure if I would trust my own local tuner on advice with batteries (but would trust him to remap my car safely).

 

I'd rather play safe and code it (I have the kit to do this but it is not difficult to find someone with VCDS or a friendly garage). You make your choices and take your chances: £26K car, £150 battery, £beer money to code it. 

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The business of coding batteries has really only become important with the arrival of battery management systems, plus the varied types of battery. For the Golf, which usually has the rather cheap(er) and nasty EFB from the factory, fitting an AGM replacement is a good idea. In this case it would seem sensible to code it, whatever you feel about a like-for-like installation.

 

Far more important IMO is never letting any battery go flat. This is a sound route to an early demise. For the reasonable cost of a good smart charger, providing you have acceptable access, put it on charge whenever you're not using it. I use my CTEK when the car is going to sit unused for more than a day. I had my previous two cars on original batteries for 5 years and 10 years, with no sign of deterioration.

 

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19 hours ago, Ecsta said:

 

It takes like 10 seconds to do and is recommended to do in the manual, why wouldn't you code it?

 

The car literally charges it at different rates depending on age, so while its probably a small difference it is still a difference and the proper way to install it. 


If the car is so clever why can’t it tell a new battery from an old one?

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The battery doesn't directly affect ASS. It's just that ASS puts an extra demand on the battery. The best option for you is to get an AGM battery fitted and coded, then to turn off ASS via a simple plug-in device like this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000988119998.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.746b35f4V9NngK

assuming you have a Golf 7. I don't know what's available for a Golf 8.

You will then have the best battery performance and no ASS.

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