Stobsie Posted July 6, 2021 Report Share Posted July 6, 2021 @samx300 total beast 💪 samx300 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJP Posted July 6, 2021 Report Share Posted July 6, 2021 27 minutes ago, Stobsie said: @samx300 total beast 💪 I watched this earlier. I remember Sam on the mk5 forum. He had a silver GTI he called his ‘baby GTR’. Sam, now the car’s gone, can you tell us why there was no test with the VBox? It kinda looked like Syvecs was quite intrusive to boost. Those 2nd gear pulls didn’t seem that strong. I don’t doubt a lot of time and money went into this, but if Syvecs is limiting the low-mid so much to keep the rods in the block, is there any point having 700 odd right up past 7k when the majority of your rev range seems on par with a hybrid ea888? I’m ready to be shot down here. And don’t take this personally, you obviously committed to the build. But it doesn’t quite add up. Did you ever have problems? Ohh and btw stock 370x34 discs are 13kg… not 16kg 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samx300 Posted July 12, 2021 Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 On 06/07/2021 at 22:33, AJP said: I watched this earlier. I remember Sam on the mk5 forum. He had a silver GTI he called his ‘baby GTR’. Sam, now the car’s gone, can you tell us why there was no test with the VBox? It kinda looked like Syvecs was quite intrusive to boost. Those 2nd gear pulls didn’t seem that strong. I don’t doubt a lot of time and money went into this, but if Syvecs is limiting the low-mid so much to keep the rods in the block, is there any point having 700 odd right up past 7k when the majority of your rev range seems on par with a hybrid ea888? I’m ready to be shot down here. And don’t take this personally, you obviously committed to the build. But it doesn’t quite add up. Did you ever have problems? Ohh and btw stock 370x34 discs are 13kg… not 16kg 😉 Hey, You have a nice memory :) No such tests were done because the new owner didn't want them doing. The car was sold at the time this video was recorded, I was only requested to host it because I knew everything about the car and would've done her justice. There is a lot of misinformation going around so I will try and clear some of that up. We mainly ran the car on 2.4 bar boost on the day of filming due to an issue with the actuator and also, the Anti Lag Calibration was set to 2.3 bar (for safety) - so the car was never in its' full power mode. Even when we tried the 2.9 bar Cal, it only delivered a max of 2.4 bar - that is 620HP at best, tops 630HP. Half a bar of missing boost on this car is easily 100+HP. Both the new owner and Jamie (OG) were aware of this. So I do appreciate it when people noticed she didn't look as 'fast'. The actuator issue was minor and has since been fixed and the new owner has been enjoying the car to the max. She does come fully alive towards the end of 2nd gear. It is a pretty large turbo on a 2.0L 4 pot so there will be lag. The way we mapped the car, we do not deliver a load of torque down low to keep the rods happy, but around 4.5-5K RPM, it does all come alive fully and is a handful. We did some other trick mapping down low to improve the town driveability and it's pretty decent. However, if you are expecting a hybrid type of response (full boost by 3K) from this full frame turbo then this build isn't for you. Hybrids run out of puff at the top end, this one doesn't and just keeps on going. You run out of balls before you run out of power. As for the spend, again, people think that it costs £55K odd to get to this stage - that isn't correct. That is just my journey from the beginning in 2016 and includes all the mods and experiences I have been through. My spend included the original Turbo Technics V1 hybrid turbo, all its' mapping, £10K+ in all the suspension mods which includes going through various sets of coilovers, £4-5K on Audio (most of which I have retained), various big brake kits, £12K on a failed built engine and turbo that the engine took with it, headlights, custom seats, race battery, Water Meth, Syvecs and so much more... so that figure was all things considered. If you were to go down this route directly after getting a 7R, it should cost you around £15-18K all inclusive. As for the discs, I may have been wrong, but I did run them on my MK5 towards the end and they were definitely 14kg+. They are fundamentally flawed (non-directional) and I would never run them if pushing the car as one side gets hotter than the other. Oh also, for me it was never about claiming all the glory on this car. Never ever have I actually claimed to be the 'fastest'. Having a powerful car and a fast car are two very different things. There is a lot to consider (mostly weight reduction) when trying to build a fast car - I on the other hand had a 38kg subwoofer in the back, 3 amps, wiring, sound deadening, child seat in the back, sunroof and all the weight you can imagine - was full street spec. However, I did do some Dragy 100-200 runs with the subwoofer and child seat removed and the best I could do was a 5.7. The car definitely had more in her had I kept her. As for 1/4 mile and launches, I honestly have never tried those - I was never about that life. The only time I was interested in were the 100-200KMPH runs. I have verified Dragy records but no point posting them now as it'll only fuel the controversy. I believe that 5.7 100-200 ain't all that bad on a DQ250 that has poor ratios to support this run and also I had to start in 2nd gear to get the turbo fully spooled. Extra gear changes = slower time. Hope that helps. SAM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJP Posted July 12, 2021 Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 8 hours ago, samx300 said: Hey, You have a nice memory No such tests were done because the new owner didn't want them doing. The car was sold at the time this video was recorded, I was only requested to host it because I knew everything about the car and would've done her justice. There is a lot of misinformation going around so I will try and clear some of that up. We mainly ran the car on 2.4 bar boost on the day of filming due to an issue with the actuator and also, the Anti Lag Calibration was set to 2.3 bar (for safety) - so the car was never in its' full power mode. Even when we tried the 2.9 bar Cal, it only delivered a max of 2.4 bar - that is 620HP at best, tops 630HP. Half a bar of missing boost on this car is easily 100+HP. Both the new owner and Jamie (OG) were aware of this. So I do appreciate it when people noticed she didn't look as 'fast'. The actuator issue was minor and has since been fixed and the new owner has been enjoying the car to the max. She does come fully alive towards the end of 2nd gear. It is a pretty large turbo on a 2.0L 4 pot so there will be lag. The way we mapped the car, we do not deliver a load of torque down low to keep the rods happy, but around 4.5-5K RPM, it does all come alive fully and is a handful. We did some other trick mapping down low to improve the town driveability and it's pretty decent. However, if you are expecting a hybrid type of response (full boost by 3K) from this full frame turbo then this build isn't for you. Hybrids run out of puff at the top end, this one doesn't and just keeps on going. You run out of balls before you run out of power. As for the spend, again, people think that it costs £55K odd to get to this stage - that isn't correct. That is just my journey from the beginning in 2016 and includes all the mods and experiences I have been through. My spend included the original Turbo Technics V1 hybrid turbo, all its' mapping, £10K+ in all the suspension mods which includes going through various sets of coilovers, £4-5K on Audio (most of which I have retained), various big brake kits, £12K on a failed built engine and turbo that the engine took with it, headlights, custom seats, race battery, Water Meth, Syvecs and so much more... so that figure was all things considered. If you were to go down this route directly after getting a 7R, it should cost you around £15-18K all inclusive. As for the discs, I may have been wrong, but I did run them on my MK5 towards the end and they were definitely 14kg+. They are fundamentally flawed (non-directional) and I would never run them if pushing the car as one side gets hotter than the other. Oh also, for me it was never about claiming all the glory on this car. Never ever have I actually claimed to be the 'fastest'. Having a powerful car and a fast car are two very different things. There is a lot to consider (mostly weight reduction) when trying to build a fast car - I on the other hand had a 38kg subwoofer in the back, 3 amps, wiring, sound deadening, child seat in the back, sunroof and all the weight you can imagine - was full street spec. However, I did do some Dragy 100-200 runs with the subwoofer and child seat removed and the best I could do was a 5.7. The car definitely had more in her had I kept her. As for 1/4 mile and launches, I honestly have never tried those - I was never about that life. The only time I was interested in were the 100-200KMPH runs. I have verified Dragy records but no point posting them now as it'll only fuel the controversy. I believe that 5.7 100-200 ain't all that bad on a DQ250 that has poor ratios to support this run and also I had to start in 2nd gear to get the turbo fully spooled. Extra gear changes = slower time. Hope that helps. SAM Thanks for the reply 🙂 And yes, that does clear a few things up. 5.7 100-200 is a great time. I remember all the problems people had with the original 370x32 TTRS 8J discs, and things didn’t really improve with the 370x34 8S/8V discs. They’re big, but apart from that they don’t have much going for them. I’ll be fitting the AP two-piece 362mm with my 8 pots. 8 and a bit kg, and handed, as you’d expect. I get your point about hybrids, but they’re not all made equal. Mine makes good boost at high revs. It’s not a common turbo like the TTEs. Peak torque is around 4500rpm-5000rpm. This is on a CDL though, so hybrids on the ea888 might tend to drop off in boost in comparison. So, what’s the next project going to be? I’m guessing something with more cylinders and capacity? 🙂 samx300 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Msportman Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 On 12/07/2021 at 10:10, samx300 said: Hey, You have a nice memory :) No such tests were done because the new owner didn't want them doing. The car was sold at the time this video was recorded, I was only requested to host it because I knew everything about the car and would've done her justice. There is a lot of misinformation going around so I will try and clear some of that up. We mainly ran the car on 2.4 bar boost on the day of filming due to an issue with the actuator and also, the Anti Lag Calibration was set to 2.3 bar (for safety) - so the car was never in its' full power mode. Even when we tried the 2.9 bar Cal, it only delivered a max of 2.4 bar - that is 620HP at best, tops 630HP. Half a bar of missing boost on this car is easily 100+HP. Both the new owner and Jamie (OG) were aware of this. So I do appreciate it when people noticed she didn't look as 'fast'. The actuator issue was minor and has since been fixed and the new owner has been enjoying the car to the max. She does come fully alive towards the end of 2nd gear. It is a pretty large turbo on a 2.0L 4 pot so there will be lag. The way we mapped the car, we do not deliver a load of torque down low to keep the rods happy, but around 4.5-5K RPM, it does all come alive fully and is a handful. We did some other trick mapping down low to improve the town driveability and it's pretty decent. However, if you are expecting a hybrid type of response (full boost by 3K) from this full frame turbo then this build isn't for you. Hybrids run out of puff at the top end, this one doesn't and just keeps on going. You run out of balls before you run out of power. As for the spend, again, people think that it costs £55K odd to get to this stage - that isn't correct. That is just my journey from the beginning in 2016 and includes all the mods and experiences I have been through. My spend included the original Turbo Technics V1 hybrid turbo, all its' mapping, £10K+ in all the suspension mods which includes going through various sets of coilovers, £4-5K on Audio (most of which I have retained), various big brake kits, £12K on a failed built engine and turbo that the engine took with it, headlights, custom seats, race battery, Water Meth, Syvecs and so much more... so that figure was all things considered. If you were to go down this route directly after getting a 7R, it should cost you around £15-18K all inclusive. As for the discs, I may have been wrong, but I did run them on my MK5 towards the end and they were definitely 14kg+. They are fundamentally flawed (non-directional) and I would never run them if pushing the car as one side gets hotter than the other. Oh also, for me it was never about claiming all the glory on this car. Never ever have I actually claimed to be the 'fastest'. Having a powerful car and a fast car are two very different things. There is a lot to consider (mostly weight reduction) when trying to build a fast car - I on the other hand had a 38kg subwoofer in the back, 3 amps, wiring, sound deadening, child seat in the back, sunroof and all the weight you can imagine - was full street spec. However, I did do some Dragy 100-200 runs with the subwoofer and child seat removed and the best I could do was a 5.7. The car definitely had more in her had I kept her. As for 1/4 mile and launches, I honestly have never tried those - I was never about that life. The only time I was interested in were the 100-200KMPH runs. I have verified Dragy records but no point posting them now as it'll only fuel the controversy. I believe that 5.7 100-200 ain't all that bad on a DQ250 that has poor ratios to support this run and also I had to start in 2nd gear to get the turbo fully spooled. Extra gear changes = slower time. Hope that helps. SAM What was the torque figure between the maps? Did you have any issues with the transmission along the way? You’re a brave person investing that sort of cash into a mainstream car. I have spent a fraction of that on mine but still I cringe because it’s money lost when it comes to selling unless I strip it and sell brakes, intercooler and all the stage 2 bolt on’s. I resisted stage 3 because of running it on track and the reliability and strain it brings and tbh the top end ooomph isn’t really beneficial for most circuits. At least you’ve had a resurgence in used car values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samx300 Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 On 19/07/2021 at 08:37, Msportman said: What was the torque figure between the maps? Did you have any issues with the transmission along the way? You’re a brave person investing that sort of cash into a mainstream car. I have spent a fraction of that on mine but still I cringe because it’s money lost when it comes to selling unless I strip it and sell brakes, intercooler and all the stage 2 bolt on’s. I resisted stage 3 because of running it on track and the reliability and strain it brings and tbh the top end ooomph isn’t really beneficial for most circuits. At least you’ve had a resurgence in used car values. Thank you - appreciate your kind words. I had the below torque figures on my last two calibrations: 2.7 Bar ~ 730HP 721WNM (Crank 830NM ~612LBFT) 2.9 Bar Kill Cal - 750HP 812WNM (Crank 933NM ~ 688LBFT) No issues with the TCU as such, but honestly I would've upgraded from the APR Stage 3 if I had the choice. It's an old calibration from 2016 or so that has not seen any updates in years. It wasn't as crisp and responsive as I'd have personally liked it - but then again, I avoided that extra few £K of spend to switch to a different TCU software towards the end. I would've needed something truly bespoke and it would've cost me at least £1.5K for the software alone and then all the ECU fettling and dyno to get it running properly. You are absolutely right about losing a lot of money in the process of modding. You barely get a fraction of it back at the end - and I am talking way under 50% of the original spend. Personally if I was to do it all over again - I'd just get a super reliable full frame with good control (ECU) and get it tuned for a bit more response down low. Maybe a smaller turbo perhaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Msportman Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 7 hours ago, samx300 said: Thank you - appreciate your kind words. I had the below torque figures on my last two calibrations: 2.7 Bar ~ 730HP 721WNM (Crank 830NM ~612LBFT) 2.9 Bar Kill Cal - 750HP 812WNM (Crank 933NM ~ 688LBFT) No issues with the TCU as such, but honestly I would've upgraded from the APR Stage 3 if I had the choice. It's an old calibration from 2016 or so that has not seen any updates in years. It wasn't as crisp and responsive as I'd have personally liked it - but then again, I avoided that extra few £K of spend to switch to a different TCU software towards the end. I would've needed something truly bespoke and it would've cost me at least £1.5K for the software alone and then all the ECU fettling and dyno to get it running properly. You are absolutely right about losing a lot of money in the process of modding. You barely get a fraction of it back at the end - and I am talking way under 50% of the original spend. Personally if I was to do it all over again - I'd just get a super reliable full frame with good control (ECU) and get it tuned for a bit more response down low. Maybe a smaller turbo perhaps. Yep the stock turbo is ideal for smaller tracks with a lot of corners. Silverstone and Thruxton are the only tracks I suffer lack of straight line oomph! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOLF Rrraf Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 launch control in my stage 1 conditions wet, running 19" 235/35/19 michelin pilot alpin tyres https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOxUVAN4v7M 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRW Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 A quick, useful guide maybe for Potential R buyers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignition1 Posted September 3, 2021 Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 On 06/07/2021 at 21:53, Stobsie said: @samx300 total beast 💪 I think what's most amazing is how much you can get out of a stock 2.0 4pot. I've seen that number plate on a different car in North London, but it wasn't on an R though - at least I don't think it was. But it's what it would say to my lowly stock 296hp R 😂. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignition1 Posted September 3, 2021 Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 On 15/08/2021 at 13:46, GOLF Rrraf said: launch control in my stage 1 conditions wet, running 19" 235/35/19 michelin pilot alpin tyres https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOxUVAN4v7M 🙂 That is rapid - did you time it? Looks like low 4 seconds for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRW Posted September 19, 2021 Report Share Posted September 19, 2021 I like this guy's videos, this one give a good insight into what goes into a minor paint correction and protection. Booth11, theskivingscholar and Wagon R 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRW Posted December 2, 2021 Report Share Posted December 2, 2021 Advice: Don’t watch. You know the outcome already. Stobsie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRW Posted December 25, 2021 Report Share Posted December 25, 2021 Spektrum Colours!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyid26 Posted August 19, 2022 Report Share Posted August 19, 2022 Hey. Here is my IE Stage 2 Mk7 Golf R! Short light drive by clips:Mods: IE stage 2 HT CrackleIE Open box intake IE turbo inletCTS Catless downpipeMiltek Non-resonated catback(Soon to be IE stage 3 Flex Fuel) Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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