samx300

Thank you - appreciate your kind words. I had the below torque figures on my last two calibrations: 2.7 Bar ~ 730HP 721WNM (Crank 830NM ~612LBFT) 2.9 Bar Kill Cal - 750HP 812WNM (Crank 933NM ~ 688LBFT) No issues with the TCU as such, but honestly I would've upgraded from the APR Stage 3 if I had the choice. It's an old calibration from 2016 or so that has not seen any updates in years. It wasn't as crisp and responsive as I'd have personally liked it - but then again, I avoided that extra few £K of spend to switch to a different TCU software towards the end. I would've needed something truly bespoke and it would've cost me at least £1.5K for the software alone and then all the ECU fettling and dyno to get it running properly. You are absolutely right about losing a lot of money in the process of modding. You barely get a fraction of it back at the end - and I am talking way under 50% of the original spend. Personally if I was to do it all over again - I'd just get a super reliable full frame with good control (ECU) and get it tuned for a bit more response down low. Maybe a smaller turbo perhaps.

Hey, You have a nice memory :) No such tests were done because the new owner didn't want them doing. The car was sold at the time this video was recorded, I was only requested to host it because I knew everything about the car and would've done her justice. There is a lot of misinformation going around so I will try and clear some of that up. We mainly ran the car on 2.4 bar boost on the day of filming due to an issue with the actuator and also, the Anti Lag Calibration was set to 2.3 bar (for safety) - so the car was never in its' full power mode. Even when we tried the 2.9 bar Cal, it only delivered a max of 2.4 bar - that is 620HP at best, tops 630HP. Half a bar of missing boost on this car is easily 100+HP. Both the new owner and Jamie (OG) were aware of this. So I do appreciate it when people noticed she didn't look as 'fast'. The actuator issue was minor and has since been fixed and the new owner has been enjoying the car to the max. She does come fully alive towards the end of 2nd gear. It is a pretty large turbo on a 2.0L 4 pot so there will be lag. The way we mapped the car, we do not deliver a load of torque down low to keep the rods happy, but around 4.5-5K RPM, it does all come alive fully and is a handful. We did some other trick mapping down low to improve the town driveability and it's pretty decent. However, if you are expecting a hybrid type of response (full boost by 3K) from this full frame turbo then this build isn't for you. Hybrids run out of puff at the top end, this one doesn't and just keeps on going. You run out of balls before you run out of power. As for the spend, again, people think that it costs £55K odd to get to this stage - that isn't correct. That is just my journey from the beginning in 2016 and includes all the mods and experiences I have been through. My spend included the original Turbo Technics V1 hybrid turbo, all its' mapping, £10K+ in all the suspension mods which includes going through various sets of coilovers, £4-5K on Audio (most of which I have retained), various big brake kits, £12K on a failed built engine and turbo that the engine took with it, headlights, custom seats, race battery, Water Meth, Syvecs and so much more... so that figure was all things considered. If you were to go down this route directly after getting a 7R, it should cost you around £15-18K all inclusive. As for the discs, I may have been wrong, but I did run them on my MK5 towards the end and they were definitely 14kg+. They are fundamentally flawed (non-directional) and I would never run them if pushing the car as one side gets hotter than the other. Oh also, for me it was never about claiming all the glory on this car. Never ever have I actually claimed to be the 'fastest'. Having a powerful car and a fast car are two very different things. There is a lot to consider (mostly weight reduction) when trying to build a fast car - I on the other hand had a 38kg subwoofer in the back, 3 amps, wiring, sound deadening, child seat in the back, sunroof and all the weight you can imagine - was full street spec. However, I did do some Dragy 100-200 runs with the subwoofer and child seat removed and the best I could do was a 5.7. The car definitely had more in her had I kept her. As for 1/4 mile and launches, I honestly have never tried those - I was never about that life. The only time I was interested in were the 100-200KMPH runs. I have verified Dragy records but no point posting them now as it'll only fuel the controversy. I believe that 5.7 100-200 ain't all that bad on a DQ250 that has poor ratios to support this run and also I had to start in 2nd gear to get the turbo fully spooled. Extra gear changes = slower time. Hope that helps. SAM

Splitting the headlights is a very tricky and expensive (if you pay someone). Even after I thought it was all done and dusted, I had a leak on one of them and they had to be resealed. Check my Instagram for all the work I had done on mine and contact Trups at EM Tuning should you want to proceed. In my case the difference in output was immense and I managed to retain the AFS functionality.

Hey guys, Not sure if these are GT100 tips or not, but this is what Racingline supplied with their Cup Edition Catback. Although my exhaust is all custom and completely different to Milltek's offering now, I decided to retain these Titanium tips. I once looked up the cost of replacements and it was like £700 for the quad cannons! 🤯 Cheers for the tag @Stobsie

Hey mate - get posting and then PM me - I can still help you out

I am genuinely hoping it'll soon be my 700HP+ 7R 😀

Can you please shed some light on what you did to enable the map on AID and resolve the problem?

Did you mean to quote me there? 🤔😉

I have personally used a few DoDo Juice products over the years and would recommend them. These would include: Red Mist Spray Sealant - insane beading and easy to apply. Longevity is questionable but still a very easy and quick way to get LSP that repels water very well. Future Armour Spray Sealant - similar to the Red Mist, maybe even slightly better! Diamond White Wax - Superb hydrophobic wax with brilliant results on light coloured cars - I used it on my old Reflex Silver Mk5 GTI and loved it. Clearly Menthol Glass Cleaner - does what it says, decent glass cleaner. Lime Prime - Pre Wax Cleanser and Polish - did a great job of prepping the surface and taking care of micro imperfections before wax application. I've moved completely to synthetic sealants and ceramics now (for ease of application) but if you're into waxing your car, I'd highly recommend this product. Born Slippy Clay Lube and Clay Bar Kit - does what it says. Not much else to say about this other than the fact that the clay lube can also be used as a QD - though it doesn't offer an extra protection, just cleaning and lubricity. Let us know how it goes!

The music on the 7R video is spot on 👌 Ozzy Moog 😊

Never was truly 600HP this R. False taglines is nothing new on social media - stick a bold title to attract punters (aka, click bait). This was at best 540-550HP on 99 pump fuel, via insider sources. The most powerful DSG R I've seen is Andy Russell's, which was 590HP independently dynoed and also running a modded V5 turbo (also from VRS).