ToRnado

Worth considering that any car can make the magic 400+ with the right correction factors applied to the dyno plot. OP, how the car performs on the road is what really matters. Don't get caught up in peak figures etc.

I had the exact same issue with the Leyo catch can (also have the V5 turbo). Under normal driving etc it was fine but when the car was driven under high load (1/4 mile runs) the catch can would fill up quickly with fresh oil. I have since removed the catch can and have reverted back to the stock PCV. These catch cans IMO are more trouble than they are worth. If you keep the oil level off the maximum, the risk to the car driving it on track is minimal.

Don't get too caught up with dyno results. They are easily manipulated. Your 1/4 mile times are pretty much bang on if the car is full weight. Strip out the spare tyre, rear seats and passenger seat will probably see you down at 11.8

Unless you are highly tuned and go on track a lot, don't waste you money on either. Most catch cans have design issues. The RacingLine one works but leaks as standard and also changes colour when exposed to high heat. The Leyo one works slightly differently but the "window" design and drain plug are as much use as a chocolate teapot. Regarding oil coolers, the two main candidates are HEL and RacingLine. The HEL is slightly harder to fit but is thermostatically controlled. The RacingLine one isn't which would concern me a bit in colder ambient temperatures.

No rods went thru the block at all but it did go through multiple engines. APR Stage 3 on the Mk7 R was a disaster from start to finish. To my knowledge only 4 kits were fitted to cars in the UK. As it stands today, only one car still runs the kit. Hi Damian, I agree very much with what you are saying. Like you, I have had countless issues on my Stage 3 journey but I am now running decent times with a Turbo Technics V5 tuned by Ecotune in Glasgow. To date it's run a 10.58 @ 132mph on pump fuel. I've since made some other changes to the car along with a 109 race fuel file. These will be getting tested in the next week or so. It is unfortunate that so many duff turbos leave both Turbo Technics and TTE. The actual failure rate always manages to get swept under the carpet.

The V5 isn't a hybrid either.

APR Stage 3 on the Mk7 was scrapped due to constant issues over a prolonged period of time which resulted in multiple engine failures. The Awesome S3 was sold with a standard engine, TTE535 turbo and custom tune (not APR). To the best of my knowledge only 4 kits were ever put on cars. Two of them work at Awesome. Both of those cars no longer run APR Stage 3. Al Mac also was APR Stage 3. His car was written off in an accident. There is only one car in the UK that is still running APR Stage 3. Steve, When I responded to your first post on this, I was serious when I told you to cut your losses and get rid of the turbo. As you are now finding out, everyone wants to distance themselves from APR Stage 3. If you are determined to run that turbo on your car then you will need to have it custom tuned. You might want to consider speaking to MRC, Unicorn or Ecotune to see if they would be prepared to tune your car for you.

Sorry but it's not my place to go into details. FYI, you have purchased the turbo from almac's car.

Hi Steve, Have you fitted the turbo already? You'll need both uprated low and high pressure fuel pumps as well as a remap. From what I've heard about the APR Stage 3 kit for the Mk7 R, you'd be better off removing that turbo from your car and tossing it in the bin. If you have it tuned north of 480bhp, your going to need a new engine fairly quickly as these turbo kits have a history of blowing up engines. Good luck with it.

Don't get too caught up with dyno figures as they are easily manipulated.

Have you considered fitting the Helix one instead? The Racingline one does not have a thermostat control - the HEL one does. I would have concerns about oil reaching temp in the winter months if fitting the Racingline one. The Racingline one requires it's own special oil filter - the HEL one uses standard oil filters. The HEL one is over £100 cheaper. The only downside to the HEL one is that it is marginally more time consuming to fit however this is far outweighed by the fact the unit is a lot cheaper to start with.

Good luck. Just be aware the vast majority of encountered issues are never discussed openly eg turbos going bang, engines going bang, etc, etc.

That maybe the case but you are not factoring in the cost of fuel pumps & map sensors as well as the repair bills you'll face with parts wearing out a lot faster. This sums up my experience as well.

Good decision. Stage 3 would also cost you a LOT more than a couple of thousand over the distance.

You should spend a bit of time researching it and speak to people that have done it already. I've been Stage 3 for a couple of years now (both manual and DSG Rs) and wouldn't do it again. Go Stage 2 and leave it at that. The costs and problems escalate rapidly at Stage 3.

I'll fit a new set of injectors. The ones that are taken out will be sent away to be degreased, cleaned & tested. The O-rings and micro-filters are replaced. The service cost is about £30 an injector.

The Helix organic clutch is rated to 420ftlbs of torque. The Sachs organic is rated to 407ftlbs of torque.

I wouldn't be fitting any cheap unbranded Chinese rubbish for sale on Ebay to a Golf R.

@Booth11, can you point me in the right direction for the coding to disable start /stop. Cheers

Aye, that's the kit I had fitted on mine, even the same colour of caliper. I'm only giving you my experience of them and it wasn't a good one. There was an extremely limited range of pads that would fit. The RacingLine pads were sold at £175 a pair. Lots of squeaks & grinding when cold and the stopping power when cold was dreadful. To be totally honest the stock brakes were better in every way. I've been modding my Golf R for over 3 years now. You'd like to think that when you spend a load of money on "performance parts" that you are actually fitting something that is better than the stock part you are replacing. In my experience that very often isn't the case.

I wouldn't touch that kit with a barge pole. I purchased the original VWR big brake kit (spent over £1600 on it) and after just 15 months, the nearside caliper was constantly binding. The kit by this point had been discontinued so getting a replacement caliper was impossible. I couldn't have my car off the road for weeks in order to get the calipers refurbished so had no choice but to purchase a brand new set up (Vagbremtechnic discs with Brembo calipers). I have had issues with every RacingLine product that I have purchased (intake, catch can & brake kit) so won't be making that mistake again in future.

The engine is salvageable. I was running 82.5mm Mahle pistons. The block is being re-honed for 83mm pistons as there is slight scoring in cylinder 2 as a result of the bore wash. I really couldn't tell you if it's a common problem with the injectors. My feeling is it happened as a result of the fuel being injected under such high pressure over standard for a prolonged period of time. I've been Stage 3 for 20 months now. The only indication prior to this happening was a very occasional shake in the idle if the car was left for 30 seconds or so. This was the start of the injector "playing up". It's a costly lesson learned. Will be adding fuel injector servicing into the annual service to reduce the chances of it happening again. Sods law that the injector stuck open (no doubt due to the pressure). No point dwelling on it. It's just one of those things.....

I'd get that checked if I were you. Black oil in the catch can may mean all is not well with your engine. There's a few reasons it can happen but some are a lot more serious than others. My forged engine has been buggered as a result of a fuel injector sticking on which has caused bore wash in cylinder 2. The only real sign apart from the low cylinder compression is dirty oil collecting in the catch can.

Just as there are different versions of ECU box code, there are also different versions of TCU. Each TCU will have its own specific map that is flashed. Some work better than others. Mine was improved by updating the control module and then flashing the corresponding TCU file to it.

Because it can produce a fair bit more power than the 525R.