Greigzy

I really like the Mk6 platform - my sister has had an Edition 35 for the past 3 years. It's a great car and still feels special.

I'll have a look at that - thank you.

Looking for some help and hoping someone who has maybe had adaptive cruise issues, could advise. About 4 weeks ago, the adaptive cruise warning light came on orange triangle, light below where the adaptive cruise light on and no ability to use cruise control. The car was booked into VW for a service a couple of week later. I asked them to check it out, who informed me it would require recalibration and would cost £450. That night I had a look and found a local crash repair place who could support with an ADAS recalibration. This costs £300 including a wheel alignment and came with a calibration certificate for the work done. I had no issues using the car for exactly 250 miles and the light has come up again, with no ability to use adaptive cruise. Am I very unlucky here and will need to fork out again for a recalibration? Or is there some form of running etc that should have been done after the recalibration that has caused the light to come on again?

If it helps, I got my 2018 7.5 R (also manual) through Unicorn. Fantastic service from them and some great additions via the mapping - removing the dead area in the pedal, having the original map in eco mode etc. When they mapped the car, I asked them for a lower torque map to account for the standard clutch. So far I have done 3000 miles on the map with no issues with my clutch. It will of course depend on how you drive the car etc.

I went for PS4S about 2 months ago. I purchased via Costco and got £150 off if I bought 4 tyres. Worked out about £540 for the set. They did have PS5 also, but went with the slightly more performance orientated 'S' - they were about £10 cheaper a wheel too. I cant fault their performance and the level of grip they offer, especially on a dry day it is phenomenal. I cant say if you would really notice the difference between the two tyres on the road though.

The only thing I would check is ensuring that you have pushed the pins all the way to the bottom of the block connector. Prior to that, It was engaging and my screen was going to the reverse camera screen, but displaying no picture. Are you having the same issue?

I fitted mine myself earlier in the year. If you are hands on it is really straight forward. It took me about 2 hours to install, removing all the relevant trim pieces etc and then coded it up on Vagcom. I bought a second hand lowline camera/handle for £120 on ebay. The loom was circa £45 + shipping from a company in Poland.

Just went out to check - I would say a very slight gap, but I can hardly get a finger nail under it. Not something I had noticed until requested to check 😄

Yeah, I would say the adhesive is very strong/sticky. But, the TCR spoiler follows the lines of the existing spoiler quite nicely. So quite easy to get right on the first attempt.

Fitted one at the start of the year - great fit for the circa £60 odd they are. I nipped up to my local VW dealer who had a TCR in and struggled to see a difference. A nice subtle alternative to the likes of an Oettinger spoiler.

To me, as most others have said, it depends on the situation and details within the ad/back up documentation. I would be more put off of a car by chavvy kits bolt on kits, 'choice' mods and the way an ad is written. If there is back up of the map or modifications and they are quality installed items I would seriously consider it if it got it closer to my 'ultimate spec' of a car.

I bought a Polo Dune as a winter car last year that had been smoked in quite heavily. I did the following: Took out the seats - wet vaxxed them. Wet vaxxed the carpet. Steam cleaned all plastics. Changed the cabin filter. After doing this, there was still a faint smell of smoke if the car had been sitting for a few days. I ended up taking out the headlining (smoke rises and all) and wet vaxxed that which seemed to solve the issue. Afterwards the car felt super fresh and clean and not like at 15 year old, 135k mile interior. I normally find those odour bombs/deodorisers work well with food smells/pet smells etc etc, but never seem to work as well on smoke.

All the best for your new purchase. I went with a 2018 (68) 310 last year. I doubt the 10 bhp will make much noticable difference in day to day driving. My only point to note would be residuals. As it stands at the moment, car prices have been inflated for the last 9-12 months due to microchip shortage. VW also get a large portion of their looms made in Ukraine, which has further delayed new cars and kept used car prices high. As such, I would say there is a higher risk now of a bigger drop in used car prices over the next 12-24 months once new car deliveries normalise. Of course, this is just my own thoughts.

I put heat reflective tape on the bottom and inside of the metal surround/housing to assist, and so far have no complaints. I will need to measure IAT to confirm. It was installed in November, so may only start finding out when the warmer days come in!

I have the Racingline Cup intake, intake pipework and turbo elbow. Its an open filter so provides more induction noise over the standard/R600. No complaints from me so far.

All sorted. After checking vcds I noticed that the camera wasn’t getting a 12v feed. Rechecked the pins at 6 and 12 and noticed the pins actually had a specific lock on the blue box. Located them correctly and all was swell.

So I am looking for some advice. I installed a low line camera into my mk7.5 Golf R yesterday and believe its coded accordingly. Headunit p/n - 3Q0035874C Camera p/n - 5G9827469E Cable: This one: https://www.carsystems.eu/vw-golf-7-5-low-line-camera-wiring-harness,id2682.html Installation was straight forward: I have tied the yellow wire into the reverse light wire (the camera opens/moves when in reverse) The black and white wires are in the back of the blue block in terminals 6 and 12. The red power wire I have tied into the terminal with the large red power wire for the radio. I have coded it as follows with VCDS: 5F Information Electronics - Enable Byte 19 Bit 4 Also gone into the parking sensor section of VCDS and enabled the RVC reversing camera. When in reverse, the camera 'opens' and on the headunit it acts as though it is providing a feed, however the screen is blank. Before I look at replacing the camera (potentially faulty) I just want to see if someone has had a similar coding issue? Thanks in advance.

Just jumping in on the Unicorn Self Tune. I have ran it for about 4 weeks now and genuinely cant fault it. Although a generic map, it was tailored to my requirements - low torque, removing the dead pedal feel etc. I was also able to get the standard map kept on the 'eco' mode setting. Support from Rick and his team were awesome. I ended up having issues with the car post remap (not remap related) and Rick was very quick to support and offer advice on that also. The car feels great, drives great (very OEM+) and is significantly faster. He also does reduced prices for going stage 2 or 3 in the future if you have the Stage 1 Self Tune.

Done it 3 times so far (the benefits of living in NE Scotland). Would agree with the sentiment of going anticlockwise. What all would you like to know? I can happily put photos up etc if it was of interest.

So I have changed the injectors under the intake manifold (the pain in the arse ones). Haven’t changed the injectors on the intake, as they are less likely to fail. This is my fear tbh. Will try the standard map and see if it does the same thing. However if it is an intermittent issue then I might not know for some time. If it does appear again, I think my next option will be an auto electrician.

Will confirm in the next couple of days, however prior to the remap, it did not miss when stock. Current issue is with the mapping in place, but have a feeling this may be coincidental. Will see what it is like when the stock map is put back on. Based on the current experience the misfiring is occurring in both instances. However it can drive completely fine and then sporadically appear hot or cold.

Thanks for the responses. The car is on 27k. Map is a Stage 1, low torque for Tesco Momentum. Spark plugs are Bosch Double Platinum @G16OCK I did hear the battery could be a problem - did replacing the battery resolve this for you? @BobbyT I did think the cam magnets could be an issue also, but thought it might be odd for all of them to fail. Would you know approximate costs each? Happy to change them, but have that fear of replacing something else without it resolving the issue.

So, a third post of issues with the golf 😔. I previously had issues with misfires under load with the Golf R. This was resolved with new spark plugs and latest revision coil packs. At the time, I also replaced the injectors with refurbed units. I then had an issue with a lean off idle code. This was resolved with one of the injectors being refurbed being faulty and then replaced. Winner. 2 weeks ago I had the car remapped by Unicorn. This was done remotely utilising the hand held device. A great service from them and a total transformation of the car. However, last Sunday, the EPC and engine light came on and started misfiring very badly. This is showing 5 fault codes: - multiple random misfires - a misfire fault code for each cylinder I got the car delivered to a local performance VAG garage who have spent a few hours taking logs, driving the car etc. They have also done a compression check (all good) and a vacuum check (no issues). The car ran faultlessly with them for 50 miles over 2 days. Heading back to the garage on the 2nd day, the same issue occurred with the same fault codes. Clearing the codes, the car drives fine. As such, it seems to be a sporadic issue. Having spoken to Unicorn (who again have been very helpful) Rick does not think this is a mapping issue. My thought is to take the map off the car and see if this makes a difference, however my concern is that this doesnt make a difference. What I am looking for is advice from the wider R community. Has anyone had issues like this before, and what it could be? I just want to get back to enjoying the car, without the fear that its going to go into limp mode. I have trawled through many post on this forum and the Mk7 golf forum, but cannot find someone with similar issues to me.

Based on the Carista settings, its set at 100%. I fitted a resonator delete and found it very boomy and reduced it to 50%. Since then though, I have reduced it to 0% as the car now provides the right level of 'natural' sound in my opinion.

I sold a set last year - similar age on the tyres. 3 wheels were immaculate and 1 had some kerbing. Advertised for £800 on ebay and took £660 + postage.