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a3scott20 last won the day on February 24

a3scott20 had the most liked content!

About a3scott20

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    Certified R Fan
  • Birthday 21/06/1988

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    Scott LEE

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  1. Thinking of AUDI RSQ3 sportback Ambient light Colors Control Module 09 Adaptation Int. light, 2nd generation - Instrumententafelbeleuchtung mehrfarbig: (not active) > active Interior light, light configuration - Ambient_Farbliste_HMI: (not active) > Active Ambient Light Color List: (0) > Set your RGB Values for all 10(or 30) Colour options (Rotwert = Red, Gruenwert - Green, Blauwert = Blue) VN]_Interior_light_lamp_configuration: [LO]_Ambient_Farbliste_HMI: [VN]_active [VN]_Ambience_lightning_color_list: or Ambientelicht Farbliste *Link to 30 color RGB Codes
  2. Did a small mod APR red coils Oh.. currently my R is up for sale and a very close friend of mine is interested. Perhaps, the car would have new owner by next week. I am lucky because I knew him very well and I believe that he will take very good care of the car. Also, we live the same city so I could see the car very easily when I miss my R SEXY ASS
  3. One update a month 1. Took out my carbon fiber hood and install back to stock hood. Looks clean and low profile 2. Did firmware update on my auto polar guage, looking nice now without music note 3. LPFP upgrade AGAIN... currently running PagParts Walbro 525LPH fule pump with Torqbyte PM4 controller, fueling is good enough for my power 500WHP and has zero issue at all. Now going to swap to PagParts brushless fuel pump with OEM controller. I understand that I would not get more power from running it since my 525 is sufficient for my current power, or even more. The reaone I want to try another LPFP setup is because.. (1) THIS IS OEM controller, which is perfect for my liking. (2) I want to see if the consumption of my small lithium battery volume wil be less, brush pump vs brushless pump.
  4. I dont think you will get more power from installing upgrade HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) unless your car has fueling issue now, but you are stage2 which is totally fine with stock HPFP. The upgrade HPFP will make your fuel rail pressure stable if you suffer fuel rail pressure drops at higher RPM but that depends on how your tuner will tune your car when going stage3, some is very aggressive then you will need upgrade HPFP and even upgrade LPFP (low pressure fuel pump).
  5. I noticed this and found that our car (mine is 2018 mk7.5r dsg) will consume 25-30A per second from battery with A/C and headlight off at idle, not to mention when A/C is on, the consumption of battey volume is 36-40A per second that means the battery volume will go low quick if car idles a lot. I am running small battery and I can monitor my battery condition via bluetooth, I found that my battery volume is always 30-40%, even 100 miles drive did not help a lot charging as battery being charged only when coasting. In order to avoid low battery volume most of time, I turn my headlight on even sky is bright so alternator is working. This way the consumption is less than 10A at idle with A/C on, and no consumption with A/C off, means battery is being charged. I also tried to disconnect the plug (BMS) around the battery negative pole and found that the consumption is really small (less than 5A) even headlight off and A/C on. I drove about 50 miles with plug off and car was running correctly and fine with electric equipment but there were error codes when check using VCDS.
  6. Hello @nige bcs, Just sent a message via Instagram about your downpipe and non-drone resonator
  7. if you just want car sound aggressive, get resonator delete kit like BCS, this will def make you car sounds louder. Unless you want more power, you can do downpipe together but you will need to get car tuned to avoid engine light / error code. My experience of downpipe and res delete- 1. High flow downpipe (like APR DP) with full factory catback, exhaust sounds a bit louder with no drone. 2. High flow downpipe and res delete with factory backbox, exhaust sounds much louder than 1. but with a bit drone. 3. Catless downpipe with full factory catback, exhaust sounds a bit louder than 1. with no drone. 4. Catless downpipe and res delete with factory backbox, it was just super loud and sounds awful.
  8. In my case, I selected BINARY-AGM which has been confirmed by my battery manufacturer "LITE BLOX". I was using "lithium ions" at the beginning since the battery I bought is lithium battery so I just selected that with no doubt. But, they have manual released recently and I found out that they recommended "AGM" as battery technology so I tried to modfiy accordingly but instead of "AGM" I could only find BINARY-AGM. I sent email to LITE BLOX to ask and they confirmed "BINARY-AGM" that is the one I should use.
  9. Thank you mate. I have no plan doing subframe swap from OEM as the weight difference is minimal. I was looking at this some time ago and weight reduce is more than aluminum subframe but the labor of doing the swap should be https://www.verkline.com/shop/seat/leon-5f/audi-tt-tts-ttrs-8s-rs3-s3-a3-8v-golf-mk7-mqb-front-tubular-lightweight-subframe-hilfsrahmen/
  10. Got my lithium battery upgrade yesterday from LITE BLOX LB26XX to LB28XX. The latest version has remote control function via Bluetooth. I can now turn OFF the battery remotely, and there is live data I can check if connected to the battery, quite useful function
  11. The drivability upgrade that is available in TVS DSG stage 2+ & 3 is what makes big different than others. You wont regret!!
  12. I dont think you can reach 500WHP and 500LBFT on this ETR V1 with just running 1.9bar unless bigger turbo and higher boost. Also, with that kind of power 500WHP you will def need HPFP and LPFP, which I did on mine. Water meth is a MUST too and it will be ideal running direct port injection with meth jet at each intake manifold runner and one at throttle pipe so totally 5 meth jets. As for the LPFP, currently I am running PagParts built walbro525 pump + Torqbyte PM4, but I would swap to PagParts built brushless pump next month just to have more fueling for the future I would never run 500-550LBFT torque on a stock engine unless you have plan already to build your engine. Currently mine is about 490LBFT on DQ381 with just software upgrade. If you are going to reach more than 500LBFT torque, an upgrade clutch kit will be requried.
  13. Thanks for your information. I didn't know that But yes i dont want my temp too low, that's why I have added thermostat so oil doesnt keep running all the time through oil cooler. FYI https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/34515-hel-oil-cooler/ https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/racingline-golf-mk7-oil-cooler.350944/post-7129242
  14. Nice Installing the plate was a pain as you would need to take out the entire front end in order to get this plate installed Like the iABED's design more than Racingline oil fiter style. Did not try oil cooling performance on the weekend with hard drive but gentle drove about 200km both highway and street road. I was getting 100-103deg C on the highway before oil cooler install, now I see only 87-89deg C. As for street road with traffic jams and lot of red lights, I see 89-91deg C instead of previous 98-100deg C. I am REALLY happy with the cooling performance so far and I will try more with hard drive in the near future. The only thing I dont like is the sound in the cabin, I can def hear an added small sound like pump running sound but only at idle, once car is moving the sound is gone.
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